![]() Support it near the front with a jack (I used a bottle jack with a drilled piece of 4x4 atop it as an extension), then remove the front bolts (the instructions say 5 my JKU had 6 - perhaps the instructions show the two door and it has a smaller tank?) and loosen the two at the rear. Once the skid plate is off, the fuel tank is lowered. It weighs next to nothing and is easy to remove. The skid plate is held on by four bolts they are two different lengths. Then comes the fun part - dropping stuff underneath. It's not evident by looking at it when it's in place, but there is in fact a metal cup bonded to the inside of the rubber bushing - I thought at first that the rubber bore directly on the shifter and would be a bear to get off, but it turned out that a few light taps combined with the penetrating oil freed it up quite easily. As the instructions say, remove the bolt and squirt some penetrating oil in there. Lift the back clear of the screw, then pull it back slightly to disengage the tabs. The rear is held by the aforementioned nut, and the front has a pair of tabs that fit under the sheet metal at the front of the shifter. The inner shift boot is held in place with a flat sheet metal nut this is easily removed and the boot lifted up and away. It's pretty self evident once you get it off. The center console is easily pulled free (it simply clips into place), but it may take some maneuvering and twisting to lift it out of the way. This succeeded in getting them to come off, but it also buggered up the tabs inside that hold them in place (they snap onto the lever, rather than the threaded attachment scheme I'm used to), so I wound up having to glue them back on with gasket RTV when I finished as they would not otherwise stay in place and I don't wish to buy new ones. My strap wrench only allows easy movement in one direction without removing and flipping it constantly, so I foolishly rotated the knobs completely around as if to unscrew them. The instructions say to grip the knob with a strap wrench and rock it back and forth while pulling up to remove it. Installation starts with removal of the knobs, console and inner boot. Mine is on a stock suspension, so I got it up off the ground by about a foot. While it might be possible to squeeze underneath to drop the underpinnings, I don't think that's a practical way to do it unless your Jeep has been lifted. The shifter itself is very solidly made, with the turret machined from a block of aluminum and blue anodized, and very beefy looking internals. This all sounds considerably more troublesome than it actually proved to be. In order to accomplish this, the transfer case skid plate must be removed (4 bolts), the front of the fuel tank must be lowered (6 bolts removed, 2 more loosened a few turns), and the transmission crossmember bolts (4) removed to permit lowering the crossmember and tranny. Getting the donut out and back in without destroying it requires lowering the rear end of the transmission by about 1.5 to 2". This donut acts as a weather and noise seal, and permits the normal movement of the drivetrain to take place while still maintaining a seal. The installation is made more difficult by the need to remove a foam rubber donut located between the shifter turret and the transmission tunnel. Following will be my first impressions of it along with notes, comments and photos from the install.Ī PDF copy of the installation instructions can be downloaded from the B&M Racing website: Manual Shifter - Precision Sport - Wrangler - B&M Transmissions, Shifters, Torque Converters, Diff Covers, Coolers I just finished installing a B&M 45195 short shifter in my 2014 JKU.
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